Knitting Patterns
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Knit To Remember Poppy Patterns – For British Legion Charity
Knitted Field Poppy Pattern
Yarn – any red and black
Needles – any appropriate size
Size of the finished poppy should be
no smaller than the paper ones sold for
Remembrance Day.
Method
Petals: (Make 4). Using red, cast on 7 sts.
1st row: (RS) K
2nd row: (Kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 9 sts.
3rd row: As 2nd row. 11 sts.
4th row: As 2nd row. 13 sts.
5th – 8th row: K.
9th row: Ssk twice, k to last 4 sts. K2tog twice. 9 sts.
10th – 12th row: K.
13th row: As 9th row. 5 sts.
14th – 16th row: K
17th row: K1, sk2po, k1. 3 sts.
18th row: K. Cast off.
Centre: Using black, cast on 16 sts. Cast off.
Making Up:
Joining cast off edges, sew petals together in pairs, then place one pair
over the other in a cross formation and secure. Coil centre into a tight
spiral and sew base in the centre of petals. Maintain the petals in a cup
shape with a small stitch behind pairs of petals.
If desired, centre can be worked in a green/yellow shade, with a circle of
black straight stitches and French knots around it.
Specific abbreviation: sk2po – slip one knitwise, K2tog, pass slipped st
over.
Council
In aid ofKnit To Remember Poppy Patterns
Crocheted Poppy Pattern
Yarn – Any red and black, I used DK.
Hook – 3.5mm, but try larger too to see the effect.
Size of the finished poppy should be
no smaller than the paper ones sold for
Remembrance Day.
The Red Bit
Round 1: Make a magic loop, make 10 dc in the loop and draw tight, join
with ss.
Round 1 (alternative): Make a starting chain of 4, ss to form a circle.
Make 10 dc in the circle and join with ss to first dc.
Round 2: *ch1, dc, ch1, 2tr in next st, 3tr in next st, (2tr ch1 tr) in next st,
ss in next 2 st. rpt from * around and join with ss.
Round 3: *ch1 3dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next 5 sts, 3dc in next 2 sts, ss in
next 2 sts. Rpt from *around, fasten off.
The Black Bit
Make a magic loop, 8dc into loop, tighten and fasten off.
Trauma Teddy Pattern – For the Red Cross
Red Cross organises the collection of the teddies, which are then distributed via the Ambulance Service, the Fire Brigade and hospitals to children and others who have experienced a trauma. They are also given to residents in nursing homes.
Teddies can be made in a variety of styles. The pattern describes a teddy with pants and a shirt, but the pattern can be varied. The important thing is that the teddy has a personality of its own!
Note: Julie Timewell, Coordinator, Tight Knit World is happy to finish Trauma Teddies once they have been knitted. Stuffing is available from Red Cross or nylon stuffing from Spotlight may be used.
8 ply wool (no angora or mohair)
Needles: No 9 (3.75 mm) or no 10 (3.25mm) needles
(Loose knitters use No 10)
LEGS & PANTS
Leg 1
Leg 2
Pants
Shirt
Sleeve
HEAD
Cast off
Repeat this procedure to obtain the other side of the Trauma Teddy
FINISHING • Sew on face.
Tight Knit World Oct 2007
Knitted daffodil – Marie Curie
How about a bright yellow daffodil to decorate an egg cosy? I created this pattern several years ago and have used it endlessly ever since (with a few variations along the way).
The pattern is very easy to follow (I don’t do difficult). Please note I have written the instructions in a way that ‘beginners’ should be able to follow. If you are an experienced knitter please don’t be put off by the rather lengthy instructions.
You will need a small amount of yellow DK yarn, pairs of 3.25 mm and 4 mm needles (US 3 and 6) and a couple of hours to spare.
Start with the centre trumpet. Using 3.25 mm needles (US size 3) cast on 14 stitches.
Row 1: purl
Row 2: knit
Row 3: purl
Row 4: knit
Change to 4 mm needles (US size 6). Changing to larger needles gives the trumpet a better shape.
Row 5: purl.
To create a little wavy edge to the trumpet you now need to do a picot edge as follows.
Row 6: Knit 1, (slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over the stitch just knitted). Repeat the instructions in the brackets to the last remaining stitch. Knit 1.
Row 7: Purl 2 stitches then pick up the yarn between stitch 2 and 3, put it on the left hand needle and purl it as a stitch. Purl the next stitch then pick up the yarn before the next sitch and purl. Continue doing this to the end of the row (by picking up these short lengths of yarn between stitches you are replacing the stiches that were lost on the row before). You should now have 14 stitches on your needle.
Row 8: knit
Change to 3.25 mm needles
Row 9: purl
Row 10 knit
Row 11 purl. Break off the yarn leaving a length of about 20 cm (8 in). Remove all the stitches onto this length of yarn ready for drawing up later.
Using a separate length of yarn (not the one threaded through the stitches) stitch together the two short edges of the daffodil trumpet and secure. Now pull the thread that passes through the stitches, draw up and secure tightly. This will form the inside of the trumpet. Fold the trumpet along the picot edge and secure the cast on edge to the back of the daffodil. Don’t draw up this edge. (shown above). The trumpet is complete.
You will need 6 petals. I have used a paler yellow for these. They are knitted in garter stitch which will ensure they don’t curl.
Using 3.25 mm needles cast on 7 stitches. Work 5 rows. Knit 2 stitches together at the start of the next and every following row until you have 3 stitches remaining. Break yarn 20 cm (8 in) from the work and remove stitches onto a sewing needle. Draw up and fasten off (petal above left). Now draw up the cast on edge and secure to give the petal a nice curled shape (petal above right).
Stitch 3 petals to the back of the trumpet as shown above.
Stitch the remaining 3 petals behind the first 3 petals as shown above.
To make the stamens/stigma for the centre of the flower. Cut a piece of yarn (orange or yellow) 20 cm (8 in) long and wrap round a needle as shown.
Tie 6 knots as shown above.
Thread each tail of yarn through to the back of the daffodil and secure tightly. The bloom is now complete and ready to add to your egg cosy.
As you’ll see I’ve made the trumpet in the centre quite short as I didn’t want the bloom to flop forward. A couple of extra rows before and after the picot row will give you a longer trumpet.
The daffodil together with a white narcissus with an orange centre (knitted same as above) make a pretty corsage. The stems are easily done with green yarn. Cast on 14 stitches. Work in stocking stitch for 2 rows and cast off. The stem will automatically curl showing the back of the stocking stitch. Use this as the right side and stitch together the two long edges to form a stem.
To make a very simple knitted egg cosy use 3.25 mm needles. Cast on 32 stitches. Work 4 rows in garter stitch and 15 rows in stocking stitch. Break yarn and thread stitches onto it. Draw up and secure. Stitch the two short edges together and you have a simple egg cosy.
KNITTED CHRISTMAS STOCKINGS
I work it on double pointed needles because during heel shaping you need to switch from working one side to the other. You can knit it on regular needles but slide the work across onto a second needle at appropriate time. Apart from the stocking top it is worked in stocking stitch (knit on right side and purl on reverse)
Materials:
oddments of yarn. I prefer to knit these on 2.75 mm needles with pure cotton 4ply but the pattern will knit up with whatever you prefer. Note, obviously the larger the needle size and thicker the yarn, the larger the finished stocking. Before you start, decide which colour you are going to knit the heel in and cut a length at least 110cm (44”) keep to one side for second heel shaping*.
PATTERN:
Cast on 25 sts, **(27 if knitting one of the stranded designs charted below)
rows 1 – 3: knit
row 4: (right side) begin pattern from charts below (if required)
work a total of 14 rows of pattern ending with a wrong side row.
**if working in one of the stranded / fairisle designs: on last wrong side row of pattern chart decrease 1 stitch at either end to give 25 stitches
Start at the bottom of the chart for the pattern charts
Heel shaping:
I like to use different coloured yarn to accentuate heel. The heel is worked in 2 halves.
row 18: with right side facing, k7 and turn leaving remaining stitches on needle
row 19: slip 1, p6
repeat these 2 rows 3 more times until 8 rows of heel have been worked
row 26: k3, k2tog through the back, k1, turn leaving 1 remaining stich of heel on needle (see photo step 1)
row 27: slip 1, p4
row 28: k2, k2tog through the back, turn leaving remaining 2 stiches on needle
row 29: slip 1, p2
row 30: k2, k2tog through the back, k1, turn
row 31: slip 1, p3
leaving these 4 stitches on needle with the main part of the stocking, slide all the work along needle, turn with wrong side facing and resume working the other side of the heel (see photo step 2).
reverse row 18: with wrong side facing and using 110cm length of yarn cut earlier*, p7 and turn leaving remaining stitches on needle
reverse row 19: slip 1, k6
repeat these 2 rows 3 more times until 8 rows of heel have been worked
reverse row 26: p3, p2tog, p1, turn leaving 1 remaining stich of heel on needle
reverse row 27: slip 1, k4
reverse row 28: p2, p2tog, turn leaving remaining 2 stiches on needle
reverse row 29: slip 1, k2
reverse row 30: p2, p2tog, p1, turn
reverse row 31: slip 1, k3
row 32: with right side facing rejoin main colour and begin knitting across first 4 stitches of heel shaping, pick up 5 stitches from inside edge of heel (see photo step 3), knit 11 stitches across main part of stocking, pick up 5 stitches from inside edge of 2nd heel half and knit final 4 stitches (29 stitches on needle) (see photo step 4)
row 33: purl
row 34: K8, k2tog, k9, k2tog through the back, k8
row 35: p7, p2tog through the back, p9, p2tog, p7
row 36: K6, k2tog, k9, k2tog through the back, k6 (23 stitches)
row 37: purl
work a further 8 rows of stocking stitch (knit on right side, purl on reverse)
row 46: with right side facing change colour for toe cap (see photo step 5) and work 2 rows
row 48: K3, K2tog through the back, k4, k2tog, k1, k2tog through the back, k4, k2tog, k3
row 49: purl
row 50: K3, K2tog through the back, k2, k2tog, k1, k2tog through the back, k2, k2tog, k3 (15 stitches) (see photo step 6)
row 51: purl
Making Up:
Cut work from the ball leaving a long end for sewing up. Thread end through 15 stitches on needle (see photo step 7) and pull up tight.
Join seam running up bottom and back of stocking using mattress stitch (see photo step 8).
Turn inside out and tie up all ends securely and trim – no need to sew them in. Turn right side out.
Hanging loop: cast on 35 stitches and then cast them off. Double strip over to make a loop and sew to back of stocking. Secure with a cute button.
Copyright © Julie Williams 2005.